If you have built your own PCs before, this one is no different. Just take your time, and make sure you don't have a lot of static electricity when you put it together. If you plug in the power cord and touch the metal case, you should have a fairly decent ground when handling the parts.
Notes (in no particular order):
- MicroATX cases are a bit more cramped than a traditional PC case, so take your time installing everything. You will need to remove the supporting cross bar when inserting the motherboard. It is held in place by one screw.
- You need to install the motherboard first. Install the BluRay and disks last as they block your access to the motherboard.
- If you are installing a PCI card, be sure it comes with a smaller back panel. A normal ATX sized back panel won't work. Fortunately, the D-Link wireless card that I chose came with both panels.
- Both the Bluray drive and Hard disk use sata cables (no more pata cables, yeah!)
- The trickiest part is connecting all of the case's LED/switch wires to the motherboard. Just take your time.
- The case has a speaker & wire, but the motherboard that I use has it's own speaker directly on the PC board. So, no need to hook that wire up.
- The card reader connects to one of the USB jumper blocks that are unused. As I recall there were two and it should matter which one you use.
- The retail CPU fansink comes with thermal grease already installed. All you have to do is snap it on per the instructions.
I neglected to point out that the case's power LED connector has three pins while the front panel jumper block (JFP1) on the motherboard only has two pins. I've run into this situation on at least two computers that I have built in the past. The solution is to move the pins in the connector so that they are adjacent. Then you can plug the connector into the jumper block (and the one empty hole will hang over the edge).
In the image below, you can just barely see that the three slot connector has one empty pin and it is hanging off to the right side of the jumper block (see the red arrow).
To move a pin, simply push a sharp pointy tool into the exposed side of the connector. This releases a catch that holds the pin in. Then gently push the pin in and pull it out. You need to push the pin in first so that it is no longer catching on the connector.